A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state     

Fernando J. Mndez  Sonia Castanedo 《Coastal Engineering》2007,54(12):878-882

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.  相似文献   

共转换点道集的抽取与转换波时变静校正   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

何兵寿  张会星  彭苏萍 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》2006,26(6):139-144

纵横波速度比固定时,同一地震道中各时间采样点对应不同的转换点位置,因此,常规的整体抽道方法只能抽取特定深度或特定层位条件下的共转换点道集,它不能保证所有P-SV转换波的反射点位置都在同一水平位置处。提出了一种精确抽取共转换点道集的新方法,运用这种方法抽取的共转换点道集中所有数据对应的转换点在地面的投影都对应于同一位置,因此,该道集是一种真正意义上的共转换点道集,在此基础上提出了一种解决短波长问题的转换波时变静校正方法,实际资料处理取得了好的效果。  相似文献   

海浪数值模式研究回顾与进展   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1  

闻斌  刘俊 《海洋预报》2006,23(4):76-81

本文简单介绍了海浪的生成、发展理论,以及海浪数值模式的分类;回顾总结了国内外在海浪数值模式研究方面取得的成果。  相似文献   

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls     

冯卫兵潘丽红  洪广文 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):299-306

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.  相似文献   

Experimental study of strong reflection of regular water waves over submerged breakwaters in tandem   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Yong-Sik Cho  Jong-In Lee  Young-Taek Kim   《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(10):88-1335

A series of laboratory experiments was carried out to investigate the strong reflection of regular water waves over a train of submerged breakwaters. Rectangular and trapezoidal shapes of submerged breakwaters are employed and compared for reflecting capability of incident waves. Measured reflection coefficients of regular waves over impermeable submerged breakwaters are verified by comparing with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed. Reflection coefficients of permeable submerged breakwaters are less than those of impermeable breakwaters. The trapezoidal shape is recommended for a submerged breakwater in terms of reflecting capability and practical application.  相似文献   

Wind-driven interannual variability over the northeast Pacific Ocean     

Patrick F. Cummins  Gary S.E. Lagerloef 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2004,51(12):365

Interannual variability of the sea surface height (SSH) over the northeast Pacific Ocean is hindcast with a reduced-gravity, quasi-geostrophic model that includes linear damping. The model is forced with monthly Ekman pumping fields derived from the NCEP reanalysis wind stresses. The numerical solution is compared with SSH observations derived from satellite altimeter data and gridded at a lateral resolution of 1 degree. Provided that the reduced gravity parameter is chosen appropriately, the results demonstrate that the model has significant hindcast skill over interior regions of the basin, away from continental boundaries. A damping time scale of 2 to 3 years is close to optimal, although the hindcast skill is not strongly dependent on this parameter.A simplification of the quasi-geostrophic model is considered in which Rossby waves are eliminated, yielding a Markov model driven by local Ekman pumping. The results approximately reproduce the hindcast skill of the more complete quasi-geostrophic model and indicate that the interannual SSH variability is dominated by the local response to wind forcing. There is a close correspondence the two leading empirical orthogonal modes of the local model and those of the observed SSH anomalies. The latter account for over half of the variance of the interannual signal over the region.  相似文献   

Spring-spawning herring (Clupea harengus L.) in the southwestern Baltic Sea: do they form genetically distinct spawning waves?     

Hede Jorgensen  Hanne B.; Hansen  Michael Moller; Loeschcke  Volker 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2005,62(6):1065-1075

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Distribution of nonlinear wave crests     

J. Al-Humoud  M. A. Tayfun  H. Askar 《Ocean Engineering》2002,29(15):1929-1943

The distribution of nonlinear wave crests is examined on the basis of a theoretical probability density previously given elsewhere (J. Eng. Mech. 120 (1994) 1009). Certain errors contained in the original theoretical density are corrected, and the corresponding exceedance distribution is derived. The resulting theoretical forms of the probability density and exceedance distribution are then slightly simplified and compared with nonlinear wave data gathered under hurricane conditions. The results indicate that the proposed theoretical forms describe the observed distributions of large wave crests better than the Rayleigh law. However, the quantitative accuracy of the predictions is somewhat poor, as is typical of approximate theories based on Gram–Charlier-type expansions.  相似文献   

Long Waves Associated with Bichromatic Waves   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

DONG Guohai 《中国海洋工程》2001,(2):281-289

A numerical model of low frequency waves is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the nu-merical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave setup. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved with a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in modeling low frequency waves associated with incident bichromalic waves.  相似文献   

Trace metals in the Western Pacific: temporal and spatial variability in the concentrations of Cd, Cu, Mn and Ni     

D. J. Mackey  J. E. O'Sullivan  R. J. Watson  G. Dal Pont 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2002,49(12)

Profiles of total dissolvable Cd, Cu, Mn and Ni are reported for samples collected from the southwest Pacific in 1989, from the western equatorial Pacific along 155°E at 5°S, 0° and 5°N in 1990 and 1993, and along the equator from 143°E to 152°E and in the Bismarck Sea in 1997 and 2000. Profiles of Cd along 155°E in 1990 and along the equator were essentially the same but, in 1993, Cd values at 5°N were higher by a factor of about 1.5–2 than at 5°S over the depth range 500–1500 m. Similar, but less pronounced, differences were observed for PO₄ and Ni. Cd and Ni were both strongly correlated with PO₄, and an even stronger correlation was found between Ni and Cd. The concentration of Ni did not fall below ≈2 nmolkg⁻¹, even in the nitrate-depleted waters of the western equatorial Pacific, where primary production is strongly dependent on recycled nitrogen (mainly ammonia and urea). It is proposed that this residual Ni is not bioavailable and that Ni could be biolimiting, since the metabolism of urea requires the nickel-containing enzyme urease. The impact of the Sepik River on Cd, Cu and Ni concentrations was small but elevated concentrations of Mn were observed near the Sepik River and close to the coast suggesting that the rivers and sediments on the north coast of New Guinea are a significant local source of Mn to the Bismarck Sea. Simple mass balance calculations show that the elevated levels of Mn observed in the Equatorial Undercurrent cannot be due to input from the rivers of New Guinea and they were attributed to the trapping of particulate matter due to strong current shear. A strong hydrothermal source of Mn was observed in the central Bismarck Sea.  相似文献